To avoid used car scams, match the VIN on the car to the title, check the VIN against official and commercial records, have an independent mechanic inspect the car, and never pay by wire transfer, gift cards or an "escrow" service the seller picked. The common scams in the U.S. and Canada are odometer rollback, title washing and flood cars, stolen or cloned VINs, curbstoning, and fake online listings.

Rules and tools below are as of October 2026. Check the official page before you rely on them.

ScamMain warning signCheck
Odometer rollbackWear or records that do not fit the mileageMileage disclosure, service records, past listings
Title washing / flood carFresh out-of-state title, water damage signsNMVTIS report, NICB VINCheck, inspection
Stolen or cloned VINVIN plates or documents that do not matchNICB VINCheck, CPIC (Canada), VIN comparison
CurbstoningCar not in the seller's nameTitle name vs seller ID
Fake listing / escrowGift card, wire or seller-chosen escrow paymentSee the car first, verify any third party yourself

1. Odometer fraud

Lower mileage makes a car worth more, which is why sellers roll back odometers. On its odometer fraud page, NHTSA estimates that more than 450,000 vehicles are sold each year with false odometer readings.

What federal law requires

Under 49 CFR Part 580, the seller must disclose the mileage on the title when ownership changes. The disclosure needs the odometer reading, the date of transfer, the names and addresses of the seller and buyer, and the vehicle's identity including the VIN. The seller must also certify that the reading is the actual mileage or say that it is not.

Some vehicles are exempt under section 580.17:

  • model year 2010 and older vehicles, once they are 10 years past their model year (which all of them now are);
  • model year 2011 and newer vehicles only once they are 20 years past their model year (the regulation's example: in calendar year 2031, model year 2011 or older vehicles are exempt);
  • vehicles over 16,000 pounds GVWR and vehicles that are not self-propelled.

So in 2026, any transfer of a model year 2011 or newer car needs a signed mileage disclosure. For older cars, mileage records from other sources matter more.

Warning signs

  • Wear on the pedals, steering wheel, seat or keys that does not match the displayed mileage.
  • Service stickers, inspection reports or receipts showing higher mileage than the dashboard.
  • An odometer disclosure stating that the reading is not the actual mileage or exceeds the odometer's mechanical limit, or a mileage figure on the title that looks altered.
  • Earlier sale listings for the same VIN that show more miles than the current ad.

Our guide on how to detect odometer rollback goes through these checks step by step.

2. Title washing and flood cars

Title washing means moving a branded car (salvage, flood and similar) through another state, or altering paperwork, so the new title no longer shows the brand. The federal NMVTIS system is designed to help stop this. Its consumer page explains that it collects data from state titling agencies, auto recyclers, junk and salvage yards, and insurance carriers. An NMVTIS report from an approved provider shows the current title state, brand history, latest odometer reading, total loss history and salvage history.

The FTC's flood car advice lists signs to look for:

  • mud or sand under the seats or dashboard;
  • rust around the doors;
  • carpet that is loose, stained or mismatched;
  • a smell of mold or decay, or a strong smell of cleaning products, in the cabin or trunk.

The FTC also advises a history report and an independent inspection. See our flood damage checklist for more.

3. Stolen and cloned VINs

In VIN cloning, thieves copy the VIN of a legally owned car, make a fake VIN plate and paperwork, and put them on a stolen car of the same model. The NICB warns on its used vehicle buying page that a car found to have a switched VIN can be taken back and returned to its rightful owner or insurer, and the buyer loses both the car and the money.

  • Compare the VIN on the dashboard, the driver's door jamb label, the title and the registration. All of them must match exactly.
  • Run the free NICB VINCheck. It shows whether participating member insurers reported the vehicle stolen but not recovered, or as salvage or flood-damaged. It does not search police records, so a clean result is not a guarantee.
  • In Canada, use the CPIC vehicle search. If it returns a positive result, CPIC says to contact local police to confirm.
  • Take extra care with a recently issued or out-of-state title. The NICB notes that cloned VINs often go undetected when an out-of-state title is surrendered.

4. Curbstoning: unlicensed dealers posing as private sellers

A curbstoner resells cars while posing as a private owner, avoiding dealer licensing and its rules. The California DMV's Investigations Division fact sheet lists unlicensed vehicle dealers, brokers and salespeople, "also known as curbstoners," as illegal businesses. Ontario's dealer regulator OMVIC calls them curbsiders. Its curbsider page lists these warning signs:

  • the seller has several vehicles for sale;
  • the price is below market value;
  • the vehicle is not registered in the seller's name, or only recently was;
  • a "private" seller appears to operate from a business, or drives the car on a dealer or mechanic's plate;
  • the seller discourages a vehicle history report or the Ontario UVIP;
  • the seller refuses an inspection by your mechanic, or will not give a receipt with their name and address.

OMVIC notes that people who buy from curbsiders are not protected by OMVIC, its compensation fund or the Motor Vehicle Dealers Act.

5. Fake listings, deposit, escrow and shipping scams

Online, the car may not exist at all. Federal agencies describe these patterns:

  • Fake buyer protection or escrow. The FBI's IC3 public service announcement describes sellers who post vehicles they do not have, promise the sale will go through a well-known company's "Buyer Protection Program," and then have the buyer pay with prepaid gift cards. The vehicle is never delivered.
  • Extra fees after you pay. The FTC's alert on phony online car sales warns about sellers who demand more money after the sale for "shipping" or "transportation" costs. It also says anyone who tells you to pay with gift cards or a wire transfer is a scammer.
  • Cloned dealer websites. A September 2026 FTC alert says scammers copy real dealers' websites, sometimes using AI, including logos, listings and fake testimonials. The FTC advises searching the dealer's name with words like "scam" or "complaint," seeing the car in person or using a mobile inspection service, and walking away if the dealer insists on an upfront wire transfer.

Before sending a deposit, check that the VIN matches the photos and listing, and choose and verify any escrow or shipping company yourself, not through a link or number the seller sends. Report scams at ReportFraud.ftc.gov or ic3.gov.

6. Buying from a dealer: the FTC Buyers Guide

Under the FTC's Used Car Rule, dealers who sell more than five used vehicles in a 12-month period must display a Buyers Guide on each used car. It shows whether the car is sold "as is" or with a warranty, and how much of the repair costs the dealer will pay. The FTC's consumer advice says the Buyers Guide overrides anything in your sales contract that conflicts with it, so any warranty promise should be written on the Guide. If the sale is conducted in Spanish, the dealer must post a Spanish-language Guide. The Rule does not apply in Maine and Wisconsin, which have similar disclosure rules of their own.

Canada: extra checks

  • Ontario private sales: the seller must give the buyer a Used Vehicle Information Package (UVIP) with Ontario registration history, lien information and wreck reports. It is not needed when you buy from an OMVIC-registered dealer.
  • Other provinces: registration, status and lien records are provincial. See how to check a VIN in Canada for each province's records.

Safe buying steps

  1. Get the full 17-character VIN before you travel or pay anything, and check it against the listing photos.
  2. Match the VIN on the car, title and registration, and check that the seller's ID matches the name on the title.
  3. Run the VIN through official tools: NICB VINCheck (U.S.), CPIC (Canada), NHTSA's recall lookup, and an NMVTIS report if title brands matter.
  4. Run a commercial history report and compare its mileage and damage records with what the seller told you.
  5. Have an independent mechanic inspect the car. The FTC says a vehicle history report is not a substitute for an inspection.
  6. Pay with a traceable method after seeing the car and paperwork, never with gift cards or a wire transfer to someone you have not met.
  7. Get a bill of sale, the signed title with the odometer disclosure, and any promises in writing.

What different records can show

NMVTIS covers title brands and total losses. Insurer and police databases cover theft. Auction records show salvage sales and damage photos, and listing records track price and mileage over time. Some commercial reports add service or accident records from their own networks. VIN Data Hub's report uses U.S. data: a salvage check, possible stolen-vehicle records, salvage auction records (damage type, odometer, title description, photos when available), sales and listing history with a mileage-inconsistency flag, model recall campaigns and market value. It does not include service records, accident reports, owner history or liens. The free preview on the VIN check page shows how many records exist before you pay.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most common used car scam?

There is no single official ranking, but federal agencies regularly warn about odometer rollback, flood-damaged cars with washed titles, curbstoning, and fake online listings that ask for gift cards, wire transfers or fake escrow payments. Matching the VIN, checking records, getting an inspection and paying only after seeing the car protects against most of them.

Is an odometer disclosure required for my car?

Under 49 CFR 580.17, model year 2010 and older vehicles are now exempt from federal odometer disclosure. Model year 2011 and newer vehicles need a disclosure at each transfer until they are 20 years past their model year, so any transfer in 2026 of a 2011 or newer car needs one. Vehicles over 16,000 pounds GVWR are also exempt.

How can I tell if a seller is a curbstoner?

Warning signs include several cars for sale, a car that is not registered in the seller's name or only recently was, a below-market price, a private seller who seems to run a business, refusing an independent inspection, and not giving a receipt with a name and address. If you suspect unlicensed dealing, contact your state or provincial dealer regulator.

Is it safe to pay through an escrow service the seller recommends?

No. The FBI and FTC describe scams in which the seller names a well-known company's buyer protection or escrow program and then sends fake invoices or asks for gift cards. Choose and verify any escrow or shipping company yourself through its official website.

Does a vehicle history report replace an inspection?

No. The FTC says a vehicle history report is not a substitute for an independent inspection. A report shows only what was reported to its sources, while a mechanic can find hidden repairs and mechanical problems that were never recorded.

Check the VIN before you pay

Enter the VIN to see a free preview of the salvage, theft, auction, sales and listing records found for the car, then decide whether you need the full report.

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Related: How to check a salvage title, Why check a VIN before buying, Title brands by state.